Our workshop can be found above the original E. Marinella store on Via Riviera Chiaia, staffed with generations of artisanal craftsmen, producing around 150 ties per day. This sacred space is affectionately known as “Il labatorio” – the laboratory. Once fabrics are received, they are carefully stowed away in our temperature-controlled vault, housing thousands of different fabrics from silks to jacquards to cashmere, bound to become beautiful finished products for our clientele.
Making a tie at E.Marinella starts with fabric carefully laid out on a large table and placed at a 45 degree angle. This is known as “cutting-on-the-bias”, which allows the fabric to drape nicely, prevents the tie from twisting, and creates some flexibility to maintain its shape. Our classic 3-fold tie contains five sections in total, which are cut by hand. The first three sections are known as the “blade”, “neck” and “tail”, which are carefully sewn together as the shell of the tie. Next they are ironed flat as one piece, inspected and moved onwards to sew the “tipping”.
The fourth section – the “tipping”, is precisely aligned with the center point of the tie. It is normally finished in the same fabric as the shell of the tie. However, it can be different from the shell of tie depending on the type of fabric used or preference of the client. This is a crucial moment because the tipping must be placed perfectly at the point of the tie to prevent any potential opening. It is ironed lightly, carefully inspected, and the tie moves onto the next step for the insertion of the “interlining”.
The interlining is a separate piece of material that gives the tie its shape, weight, bulk and placed within the shell of the tie. It can be made out of brushed wool. Again, the thickness selected may vary depending on the type of fabric or preference of client. This is the point where the “sarta” is preparing for the “slipping process”.
The process continues with pinning everything at the center back, and two “bar tack stitches” are implemented prior to “slipping process” to anchor the two folds of tie in place. Subsequently, a “running slip stitch” is used as an added anchor to maintain the placement of the two folds together. Now, this delicate procedure is performed by utilizing the slip-stitch sewn underneath the folds of the tie, to hold its shape from both ends correctly. Our skillful artisans use one thread throughout this process with tedious, careful precision. Once completed, the running stitch is removed, and the tie is delicately ironed and carefully inspected. The finishing touches consist of applying the E.Marinella label and care-tag to the tie, ready for our client to adorn and enjoy.